(Increase the text size from the menu bar if the writing is too small.)
Link to: SUSAN'S (much
prettier) PAGE
STAR RATINGS:
Villages/Towns: * - Not worth stopping; ** - things to see; ***
- don't miss
Accommodation: * - I'd find somewhere else; ** - OK; *** I'd definitely stay here again
Explanation of the information about prices and accommodation at bottom of page.
| WEEKS | PLACES | km | miles | total km | total miles | Walk | Photos | Stay (for 2) | NOTES | PLANNED | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Wed | 02-May | *** Arrive Le Puy |
x 0.62 |
x 0.62 |
|
ibis Hotel, Centre, 39 + pdj 7 each |
Arrive le Puy | ||||||
| Thu | 03-May | Stay in le Puy | Photos | ** | 2-beds en suite. 39E for 2 if booked 30 days in advance. | Stay in le Puy | ||||||||
| Fri | 04-May | * Tallode, St. Christophe sur Dolaison |
8.9 | 5.5 | 8.9 | 6 | Easy except steep bit out of Le Puy | Photos | *** Mme Allegre, Tallode, demi-pension 66 |
3-bed comfortable room + ensuite. Excellent meal with lentils. Interesting hosts. Good company. Good breakfast. | Originally Montbonnet but rescheduled. | |||
| Sat | 05-May |
*** Saint-Privat-d'Allier Break at Le Grand Duc, Montbonnet. |
15 | 9.3 | 23.9 | 15 | Damp but easier than anticipated | Photos | ** Gite La Cabourne, 25.60 +pdj 4.20 each |
2-bed room with washbasin. Evening picnic in the kitchen. Basic breakfast. | Originally Monistrol-d'Allier | |||
| Sun | 06-May |
*** Saugues Ate late in bar opposite hotel - 16E for very good plate of cheese plus salad and tasty dessert. |
19.6 | 12.2 | 43.5 | 27 | Steep slippery paths in bad weather. Arduous at first but with great views at end. | Photos |
*** Hotel La Terrasse 73.00+ pdj 8 each. |
Comfortable and friendly after our arduous walk.
We didn't eat there but heard later that it is very good. ALTERNATIVE: Gite Martins-Itier, Saugues; |
Saugues - caught up with our plan. | |||
| 2 | Mon | 07-May | * Le Falzet |
9.9 | 6.1 | 53.4 | 33 | Pleasant, some road walking | Photos |
** Accueil a Ferme Delcros, demi-pension 60 Picnic: 6 each |
Bunk beds in shared room for 3. Rooms not as nice as they appear in photos. 9 people and only one
bathroom. Food & company good. Interesting hostess. ALTERNATIVE: L'Oustal de Parent; |
Le Falzet | ||
| Tue | 08-May |
* Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole |
19 | 11.8 | 72.4 | 45 | Long but lovely. First view of sun. Good views. | Photos | *** CH Les Genets 40 pdj included |
2-bed room OK except no lock on shared bathroom. Excellent breakfast. Very welcoming and interesting hosts. | Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole | |||
| Wed | 09-May |
** Aumont-Aubrac |
15.2 | 9.4 | 87.6 | 54 | Sun at last & some views | Photos | ** Hotel Prunieres 76.80 |
Room OK. Menu: 13.90 each. Food OK. Unfriendly staff. | REST DAY | |||
| Thu | 10-May | REST DAY | Photos | Sleepy little village but well suited to us after the exertions of the week. | Aumont-Aubrac | |||||||||
| Fri | 11-May |
* Finieyrols |
16.1 | 10 | 103.7 | 64 | Easier now up on plateau | Photos |
*** Ferme Auberge Les Gentianes demi-pension 60 |
2-bed room in gite - shared bathrooms. Food OK. Good company. Helpful proprietoress. | Finieyrols | |||
| Sat | 12-May |
** Nasbinals Good lunch at Maison de Rosalie Montgros |
10.2 | 6.3 | 113.9 | 71 | Shadeless but worth while detour to Cascade du Roc | Photos | ** Gite Communal 24 |
2-bed room. Showers at each end of corridor. Kitchen. Full of noisy non-walkers. | Nasbinals | |||
| Sun | 13-May |
** Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac |
16.3 | 10.1 | 130.2 | 81 | Steep downhill to St. Chely. Beautiful. | Photos |
** CH Bar Relais St Jacques demi-pension 78 |
2-bed room with shared bath in house down by bridge. Meal in Bar. OK. | Saint-Chély-d'Aubrac | |||
| 3 | Mon | 14-May |
*** SAINT-COME-D'OLT Don't miss the twisted tower V. good 'onion tarte' from Boulangerie opposite gite. |
16.1 | 10.0 | 146.3 | 91 | Long, cold walk, up, across & down in very bad weather - Nice stop "Chez Muriel" at Grezes. Exhausting | Photos |
** Le jardin d'eliane 78.00 for 3 pdj included |
Spacious, clean 3-bed room with kitchenette and en suite.
Breakfast OK. Lots of rules on walls. Mixed reception. |
Saint-Come-d'Olt | ||
| Tue | 15-May | REST DAY | Photos |
FRIEND JOINS US |
REST DAY | |||||||||
| Wed | 16-May |
** Espalion Don't miss Eglise de Perse at bottom of hill. |
7.2 | 4.5 | 153.5 | 95 | Heavy rain, steep, muddy paths. Seemed much further than 7 km and took us hours and hours. | Photos |
* Hotel Moderne 25 for 2 + pdj: 7E each |
Basic twin room on Pilgrim Floor. One loo with shower for all 16 rooms! | Espalion | |||
| Thu | 17-May |
*** Estaing |
12 | 7.4 | 165.5 | 103 | Heavy rain | Photos |
** Aux Armes d'Estaing, demi-pension 108 for 3 |
Ensuite room for 3 in annexe. OK. Heater. Food good. | Estaing | |||
| Fri | 18-May | ** Le Battedou |
15.6 | 9.7 | 181.1 | 112 | Steep, cold, cloudy first section. Lovely views. | Photos | ** Le Battedou demi-pension 35 each |
1 double + 1 single bed room. Showers etc downstairs. Food good. Lovely spot. | Golinhac was full. | |||
| Sat | 19-May | ** Senergues One euro pies and quiche in village Charcuterie. Delicious pear juice from Boulangerie. |
13.2 | 8.2 | 194.3 | 121 | We went the wrong way here but ended up in the village anyway. | Photos | *** Domaine de Senos 15:00 + pdj |
Lovely room for 3 with en suite. Friendly staff. Cooked own food. | Senergues | |||
| Sun | 20-May |
*** CONQUES |
9.4 | 5.8 | 203.7 | 126 | Steep, muddy, downhill. | Photos |
* CH Marie Scepe 67 for 3 + pdj 5 each |
Room OK overlooking Abbey. Self-service breakfast for early
starts. ALTERNATIVE: Accueil Monastique, Conques Everyone we met told us it was wonderful. |
Conques | |||
| 4 | Mon | 21-May | REST DAY Nice sculptures |
Photos | FRIEND RETURNS UK TOMORROW |
REST DAY | ||||||||
| Tue | 22-May | * Livinhac via Noailhac (Ice tea at pleasant restaurant.) and Chemin de Cretes |
19 | 11.78 | 222.7 | 138 | Steep out of Conques. OK a.m. Hot & horrible p.m. Suburban road walking and then a nasty downhill mud slide. | Photos | ** Gite La Magnanereie 20 + pdj 5 each |
Room in Silkworm tower. Cooked in kitchen. Interesting proprietoress. OK, but loo and shower across garden. |
We avoided Decazeville and went straight to Lininhac - a bad idea. | |||
| Wed | 23-May |
*** FIGEAC |
24.5 | 15.2 | 247.2 | 153 | A lot of hot, horrible shadeless road walking. | Photos | *** CH Le Solheilho 70 pdj included |
Room
with wonderful view over Figeac (even airconditioning!). Kindly proprietoress. ALTERNATIVE: Le Pentadou, Felzins |
Originally Montredon but we went straight to Figeac - a mistake. | |||
| Thu | 24-May | REST DAY | Photos | Figeac | ||||||||||
| Fri | 25-May | REST DAY - had to wait for a parcel to arrive at post office. | Photos | Very good 4-course lunch at Puce a L'Oreille restaurant for 15.50 | REST DAY - instead of one day ahead we are back on schedule. | |||||||||
| Sat | 26-May | * Beduer |
Rainy | Photos | ** CH Le Mas de La Croix 40 pdj included |
2-bed Room + shared bathroom. Lift offered to restaurant in nearby village but we had lunched well and didn't eat that evening. | Pech Rougié (Béduer) | |||||||
| Sun | 27-May | ** Espagnac |
11.5 | 8.494 | 260.9 | 162 | Rainy - fairly easy walking | Photos |
** Gite Communal 18.40 |
Dorm with 4 beds - en suite loo. OK. Nearby restaurant for meal (15e) and self-service pdj (5.50e) - "Les jardins du Célé" - OK. | Originally Cajarc - we deceded to take the Cele route - a big mistake. | |||
| 5 | Mon | 28-May | ** Marcillac-sur-Cele Friendly open bar at St. Sulpice for lunch. |
13.7 | 10.974 | 278.6 | 173 | Wet, hilly. Very scary bit on cliffs above Brengues. | Photos | *** CH Le Tilleul 45 pdj included |
Nice big room + en suite. Cold. Books to read. Interesting hostess. Excellent breakfast. | Originally Limogne-en-Quercy | ||
| Tue | 29-May |
** Cabrerets Visit the cave at Pech Merle |
17.7 | 12.09 | 298.1 | 185 | Long walk with steep narrow paths. Slightly scary cliffs. | Photos | ** Hotel des Grottes, 83 demi-pension |
Double bed in very small room in annexe but with balcony and washing line. Food good in
dining room with view over river but grudging, slow service. ALTERNATIVE: Gite Espinieres |
Originally Vaylats | |||
| Wed | 30-May | ** Arcambal |
19.5 | 12.09 | 317.6 | 197 | Wet, muddy. exhausting. Up hills but no views. | Photos | *** Le Relais de Pasturat 38 pdj included. |
Small room with en suite. OK. Excellent meal (12e). Good company. Kind and interesting hosts. | Originally Cahors | |||
| Thu | 31-May |
*** CAHORS |
21 | 13.02 | 338.6 | 210 | Muddy, exhausting. | Photos | * Hotel La Chartreuse 72+pdj 7 each |
Room OK and good bathroom BUT scaffolding and workmen right outside the window so it was noisy and smelly, no view and no privacy but worse was their refusal to give us any discount for the inconvenience! | Originally REST DAY in Cahors but because we went down the Cele route we were one day behind. | |||
| 01-Jun | REST DAY | Photos | Nice Galettes (savoury pancakes) in friendly Creperie just off main street in Rue Wilson. | Originally Lascabanes | ||||||||||
| Sat | 02-Jun | ** Hospitalet |
14 | 8.68 | 352.6 | 219 | Steep at first and some nasty roads but then easy. | Photos | ** Chez Madame Daude 76 demi-pension |
Double bed + en suite shower but loo shared- no lock. Meal OK.
Interesting proprietoress. Self-service breakfast. ALTERNATIVE: Las Cabanas |
Originally Montlauzun | |||
| Sun | 03-Jun |
*** Montcuq |
18.7 | 11.594 | 371.3 | 230 | Lovely walk - flat with good views. | Photos | *** Gite Le Souleillou |
2 bed room - plenty of shared bathrooms. Excellent meal. Genial, kind hosts. | Originally Durfort- Lacapelette |
|||
| 6 | Mon | 04-Jun | *** Lauzerte |
14.1 | 8.742 | 385.4 | 239 | Hillier than yesterday. Nasty dogs and nasty notices on approach. | Photos | *** Gite Les Figuieres 33 pdj included |
2 bed room + en suite. Genial, kind hosts. We cooked our own food but were invited to join everyone else at the table for coffee and cake. Excellent value. | Originally Moissac but now we are now two days behind. | ||
| Tue | 05-Jun | * Durfort- Lacapelette |
10.8 | 6.696 | 396.2 | 246 | Short muddy walk. Dull weather. Don't miss pigeonnier on right. | Photos | ** Hotel Aube Nouvelle 94 demi-pension |
4 bed room + en suite. Large, rich evening meal. Breakfast nothing special. | Originally REST DAY in Moissac | |||
| Wed | 06-Jun |
*** MOISSAC |
16 | 9.92 | 412.2 | 256 | Hotel Luxembourg | Very wet and muddy - footpaths 18 inches deep in water, mudslides etc. | Photos | Hotel Luxembourg | * Hotel Luxembourg + pdj 8 each |
This hotel wins the award for the WORST VALUE BREAKFAST OF THE TRIP. Eight euros for a quarter baguette, 1 pat butter, 2 plastic sachets of jam and 1 very small cup of stewed coffee with hardly any milk, served grumpily. Notably, this was the only place where they didn't ask us if we would like some more of anything. | Originally S. Antoine - but 27 km would have been a bit too far for us - even though the first part of the route is flat. | |
| Thu | 07-Jun | REST DAY | Photos | Good 12:50 lunch in restaurant next to tourist office.
Lovely, expensive
ice-creams opposite tympanum. Friendly lady in Kiosque de L'Uvarium down by river. |
Originally Lectoure | |||||||||
| Fri | 08-Jun |
*** Auvillar via Canalside path |
21.2 | 13.144 | 433.4 | 269 | Mostly pleasant by canal (some mud) but very hot & shadeless at end. | Photos | *** Gite Communal 10 each |
2-bed room. Wonderfully equipped spanking new gite. Garden and
views. Delicious 'Argentiere' pancake at 4 p.m. in Le Baladin
nearby. ALTERNATIVE: CH Sarraut, Auvillar |
Originally Marsolan | |||
| Sat | 09-Jun | ** Castet Arrouy David, the French-Canadian proprietor of La Plancha next to the Gite has done camino four times and is very interesting. |
21.8 | 13.516 | 455.2 | 282 | Welcome bar at Saint-Antoine on way. | Photos |
* Gite Communal 27 pdj included Repas at La Plancha 13:50 |
Gite OK but very cramped - six bunks in each of three very small rooms.
Kitchens and washing facilities downstairs OK. Self-service pdj. ALTERNATIVES: Lou Casâu, Miradoux ALTERNATIVE: Maison Valentin, Castet-Arrouy |
Originally Condom | |||
| Sun | 10-Jun |
** Lectoure |
10.7 | 6.634 | 465.9 | 289 | Short, pleasant walk, mostly shady on a hot day. | Photos | *** Hotel de Bastard 70+pdj 10 each |
Lovely room with view over swimming pool. Nice lunch at Restaurante Le Bellevue on main street. |
Originally Montréal-du-Gers - we are three days behind now. | |||
| 7 | Mon | 11-Jun |
*** La Romieu |
18.7 | 11.594 | 484.6 | 300 | Sunny. | Photos | ** Gite Communal 16 |
OK - although possibly bed bugs when we were there. Appears to have closed now. | Originally Eauze | ||
| Tue | 12-Jun |
** Condom |
16 | 9.92 | 500.6 | 310 | Hot. | Photos | *** Le Logis des Cordeliers 52+pdj 8 each |
Room OK - friendly reception. Swimming pool with towels provided.
Nice brekkie at 7 a.m. ALTRNATIVE: Gite de Gabarre, Condom |
Originally Nogaro | |||
| Wed | 13-Jun |
*** Montréal-du-Gers |
18.3 | 11.346 | 518.9 | 322 | Hot, muggy and exhausting. Don't miss detour to Larresingle. | Photos | *** La Maison des Agapanthes 42 pdj included |
2-bed room en suite. Bathroom a bit dodgy - noisy loo
and blocked shower. Very kind hostess. Nice late lunch in bar in town. |
Originally Lanne-Soubiran but we actually cut this step out when we did do it. | |||
| Thu | 14-Jun |
** Eauze |
17 | 10.54 | 535.9 | 332 | Quite a bit of straight flat shady walking along old railway line | Photos | * Gite Communal 18 |
5-bed dortoir. Showers and loos downstairs. Kitchen. | Originally Aire-sur-l Adour | |||
| Fri | 15-Jun |
* Nogaro |
20 | 12.4 | 555.9 | 346 | Very hot but clouds, breeze and trees helped. | Photos | * Hotel Le Commerce 70 + repas 12 each |
Large 2-bed room next to a noisy road. Reception was not good and we were refused early breakfast although a male pilgrim was given a tray. Expensive, poor value. | Originally Miramont-Sensacq | |||
| Sat | 16-Jun | * Barcelonne du Gers Slight detour as Aire-sur-L'Adour was having Fiestas. |
21.5 | 13.33 | 577.4 | 358 | Photos | * Chez Alain +32 pdj 3 each |
2-bed room in annexe with washbasin & shower. Loo down two flights of
stairs. We think Alain might
have been quite a laugh but we had trouble understanding his accent. Self-service breakfast - at 3E the cheapest of trip! |
Originally Arzacq-Arraziguet | ||||
| Sun | 17 Jun | ** Miramont-Sensacq** |
21.5 | 13.3 | 598.9 | 371 | Photos | *** CH Maison du Bos 80 demi-pension |
Double bedroom en suite. Lovely place. Excellent meal.
Interesting and genial hosts who had done an impressive 'grand designs' job on
a ruined farmhouse. ALTERNATIVE: Centre d'Accueil Communal, Pimbo |
We went without the planned REST DAY in Arzacq (just as well as we didn't like it). | ||||
| 8 | Mon | 18-Jun |
* Arzacq-Arraziguet Recommended restaurant (Cafe des Sports) was closed Mondays. A hungry evening. |
15.8 | 9.8 | 614.7 | 381 | Shortish walk but very hot after a late start. Lots of ups and downs. | Photos | * Gite Communal 19 |
4-bed dortoir - top floor next to the main road and neighbouring bar - very noisy. Rooms at the back though reported as very good. | We didn't stop at the planned Uzan but at Pomps. | ||
| Tue | 19-Jun | * Pomps |
19.5 | 12.1 | 634.2 | 393 | Lovely view of lake leaving Arzacq. | Photos |
** La Posada demi-pension 62 + 4 drinks |
2-bed room en suite. Good meal. Self-service breakfast. ALTERNATIVE: Gite Communal, Sauvelade |
Originally Maslacq - only 1 day behind now. | |||
| Wed | 20-Jun | * Maslacq |
19.3 | 12:00 | 653.5 | 405 | Nice walk as far as Argagnon. Then roads & traffic. | Photos |
Chez
Cazetien demi-pension 62 |
** 2-bed room - 1 shared bathroom downstairs. Good meal. Friendly English proprietoress. Self-service breakfast. |
Originally Navarrenx | |||
| Thu | 21-Jun |
*** Navarrenx Don't miss the loo in the Taverne de Saint. Jacques! |
22.2 | 13.8 | 675.7 | 419 | Lovely and with stunning views but with some hot bits, e.g. very long hill to Station Pomp. | Photos |
* Hotel du Commerce 50+pdj 7.50 each Served on tray night before in room - good. |
Room (33) with very grotty bathroom in annexe - other guests got up at 4 a.m., talked loudly and banged doors. Mixed reception. Free (but slow) internet access. | Originally Aroue | |||
| Fri | 22-Jun | * Aroue |
18.3 | 11.3 | 694 | 430 | Nasty bit of road walking right at end. | Photos |
Gite Communal 16 |
* 4-bed dortoir - provisions sold at 6 p.m so you can make evening meal. OK although possibly bed bugs when we were there. ALTERNATIVE: ;Ferme Bohoteguia, Arroue(meal) |
Originally Ostabat | |||
| Sat | 23-Jun | ** Ostabat ON WAY: Delicious snack lunch and kind service at Auberge Duhalde at Uhart- Mixe |
22.5 | 14:0 | 716.5 | 444 | We took the short-cut via Uhart-Mixe but tracked back up the hill to Chapelle de Soyarza for views. Well worth it! | Photos |
* Ospitalia 18 |
4-bed dortoir - house OK with balcony for drying clothes BUT too many
flies. ALTERNATIVE: Auberge Duhalde at Uhart- Mixe; ALTERNATIVE: Ferme Gaineko Etxea, Ostabat. |
Originally Saint-Jean-le-Vieux | |||
| Sun | 24-Jun |
*** SAINT JEAN-PIED-DE-PORT |
22.4 | 13.9 | 738.9 | 458 | Long, tiring. Fairly flat but muggy weather. | Photos |
*** Hotel Ramuntcho 65+pdj 8:50 each |
Room (11) with lovely view. Early breakfast tray in room. | Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port - caught up with our shedule here. | |||
| 9 | Mon | 25-Jun | REST DAY | Photos | We needed a rest day in this lovely town. Ate in a couple of places but none worth recommending. | Originally Honto or Orisson - one day behind again. | ||||||||
| Tue | 26-Jun | ** Orisson |
8 | 5.0 | 746.9 | 463 | Short walk - a bit steep at the end. | Photos |
*** Refuge Orisson 60 demi-pension |
6 bunk dortoir. OK but hot water a bit scarce in showers. Very good meal. Pleasant atmosphere. Good views. | Originally - Roncesvalles | |||
| Wed | 27-Jun | *** Roncesvalles |
17.7 | 11.0 | 764.6 | 474. | Walking Ok except for thick mist at top | Photos |
*** "Itzandegia" refuge 10 for two! How cheap is that? Viva Espana! |
100+ bunk dortoir. Very peaceful and atmospheric. BUT only one shower for ALL the women staying there. We ate the pilgrim meal (trout 7e) in the Casa Sabina. Good. | Originally - Zubiri | |||
| Thu | 28-Jun | * Zubiri |
21.7 | 13.3 | 778.1 | 482 | Pleasant walk until Zubiri. | Photos |
** Albergue Zaldiko 20 |
Very cramped rooms and minimal kitchen but all very clean with super showers and free internet access. | Originally - Pamplona | |||
| Fri | 29-Jun | *** PAMPLONA END OF PILGRIMAGE THIS YEAR |
22.5 | 14.0 | 792.0 | 491 | Mostly pleasant - some roads. | Photos |
** Hostal Arriazu 60+pdj 5 each |
OK - comfortable room. Breakfast very minimal and not before 9 am at the weekend. | Originally Stay in Pamplona but sadly we moved on to catch up. | |||
| Sat | 30-Jun | *** SANTANDER via bus and FEVE train |
Bus to Bilbao then FEVE train to Santander | Photos |
*** Hotel Central reasonable for Santander |
Room on 6th floor (602) with lovely view over Santander Bay. Accommodation in high season Santander was pricy and difficult to find so we were grateful for this. Hotel food was very good value. | Originally To Bilbao - bus/train but we decided to go on to Santander as we have been to Bilbao before. | |||||||
| Sun | 01-Jul | ** OVIEDO via FEVE train |
FEVE train to Oviedo | Photos |
** Hotel Favila Reasonable |
3-bed room en suite. OK although view onto internal shaft. | Train to Oviedo 13:00 - 20:54 | |||||||
| 10 | Mon | 02-Jul | * FERROL via FEVE train |
Photos | *** Parador de Ferrol |
Wonderful room. Cafe bar OK. | Train to Ferrol 7:47- 14:09 or 14:47-21:09 | |||||||
| Tue | 03-Jul | Ferrol | Photos | Ferrol - on schedule! | ||||||||||
| Wed | 04-Jul | * Cedeira |
Photos | ** Hotel Herbeira 80+tax +Breakfast |
Room OK, interesting architecture. Friendly owners. Breakfast very expensive:12 each | Originally planned to walk the Camino Ingles - day 1 | ||||||||
| Thu | 05-Jul | Cedeira | Photos | walk 2 | ||||||||||
| Fri | 06-Jul |
* Muxia |
Photos | ** Hostal La Cruz |
Room OK. Food a bit pricy. ALTERNATIVE: Hotel Rustico Lorena, Muxia |
Walk 3 | ||||||||
| Sat | 07-Jul | Muxia | Photos | Excellent 'raciones' at O Coral on the front. | Walk 4 | |||||||||
| Sun | 08-Jul | * Lugo |
Photos | ** Hotel Mendez- Nunez 60: |
OK - well located. Good value food in the bars in the centre. English books on sale in the stalls on the main square. |
Walk 5 | ||||||||
| 11 | Mon | 09-Jul | Lugo | Photos | Walk 6 | |||||||||
| Tue | 10-Jul | *** Santiago |
Photos |
*** Hostal de Los Reis Catholicos |
We thought it was wonderful. Don't miss the chapel with the statue of St. James. | Santiago | ||||||||
| Wed | 11-Jul | Santiago | Photos | * Hotel Husa Universal |
Room OK. Left early before breakfast. | Santiago | ||||||||
| Thu | 12-Jul | Santiago |
The next few days we took an organised walk to Finisterre. We paid 'La Pelerine' but they subcontracted to 'Balaguere'. So we had luggage carried and accommodation booked for us. I suspect they pay the hotels a very low rate and so mostly you get to stay in places that need the custom. The rooms (apart from the last) were OK but the locations and meals were not good - EXCEPT FOR THE HOTEL RURAL AT CACIN where the meal and hospitality were wonderful. Walk was mostly pleasant but we found Galicia to be very built up and industrial after France or even, indeed, our local North of England landscapes. |
walk 1 | ||||||||||
| Fri | 13-Jul | * Negreira |
21.3 | 13.2 | Rain and mist. A bit suburban | * Hotel Tamara |
Unattractive building in unattractive town. Room OK but noisy concrete mixer in forecourt. Meal was NOT good - 7 euro pilgrim fare or worse. Early breakfast OK. | walk 2 | ||||||
| Sat | 14-Jul | * Chacin Taxi from Maronas |
22.0 | 13.6 | 43.3 | 27 | Lots of road walking in thick mist and rain. |
*** Hotel Rural Santa Eulalia |
Nice place with friendly hosts. Excellent dinner with good wine home-made liqueurs, coffee - no extra charge. | walk 3 | ||||
| Sun | 15-Jul | *
Cee Guidebooks suggest Corcubion is nicer but we didn't agree. |
c.20.0 from Oliveroa | 12.4 | 63.3 | 39 | Pleasant walk after carbide factory onwards. Nice views at last. | * Hotel Insua |
Room OK. Meal not particularly nice. Lively bar. | walk 4 | ||||
| 12 | Mon | 16-Jul | Cee* | Good 'raciones' in Cafe Bar Tio Moncho in Corcubion. | walk 5 | |||||||||
| Tue | 17-Jul | ** Finisterre |
17.0 | 10.5 | 80.3 | 50 | Pleasant walk - mostly along beaches. | * Hotel Ancora |
Cramped room. Meal not particularly nice. Charged us extra for coffee after the meal. | Finisterre | ||||
| Wed | 18-Jul | Finisterre | Good lunch at Meson O'Fragon above the port. | Finisterre | ||||||||||
| Thu | 19-Jul | ** La Coruna |
* Hotel Zenit Coruna |
Cramped, tiny room. Ugly hotel - only one street from beach but another big ugly building blocked view. Poor value. | La Coruna | |||||||||
| Fri | 20-Jul | La Coruna Good meals at 'Comer & Picar'. |
Good chocolate con churros in the chocolateria in the Maria Pitti Square. | La Coruna | ||||||||||
| Sat | 21-Jul | Fly home | Fly home | |||||||||||
PRICES:
Always for two people except where stated. Prices are difficult to compare
because they are usually (but not always) based on a price for the room rather
than per person. However, sometimes breakfast is included and
sometimes the evening meal as well. In France you often have to pay a little
extra in tax - usually around one euro. In Spain it's a more expensive seven
per cent.
pdj = petit dejeuner (breakfast). Usually quoted separately from the
room price.
demi-pension = room plus pdj and evening meal. Usually quoted per person
but here I give the price we paid for two of us. Demi-pension is usually very good value -
especially in Gites.
Self-service breakfast is great because it means you can get away early.
This is especially important in hot weather and always worth asking
about.
On the whole hotels were not good value - we got much better food at very reasonable prices in the private pilgrim accommodation.
HOTELS: Hotels usually took one look at us all covered in mud and gave us the worst room in the place. Hotels which were noticeably friendly despite our grotty appearance were La Terrasse at Saugues (and the cheeseboard is definitely worth trying apparently) and the Le Logis des Cordeliers, at Condom. In fact the people at Condom were even nice about our having walked off with the key to the room (we posted it back from the next town and they sent us a 'Thank you' postcard). Also pleasant were the Hotel Ramuntcho in SJPP where we had the nicest room in the place and, later on our way to Finisterre, the Hotel Rural Santa Eulalia. On any future trip I would avoid hotels and try to stay in the private gites or bed and breakfasts. Hotels are only worth paying for if you are really tired and just want to go to bed without having to talk to anyone!
COMMUNAL GITES: These varied enormously from the gloriously equipped and located gite in Auvillar (with FREE use of the washing machine!) to those with grotty, cramped dormitories and sparse washing facilities. However, in France and if you can afford it, it's always worth asking if they have any private rooms. These can be very good value. Most communal gites don't seem to provide food but some do and it can be good. Apparently the meal at the Gite in Arzacq was good - we didn't try it and didn't much enjoy our stay there - but others did.
ALTERNATIVE ACCOMMODATION:
A note of other accommodation that was recommended to us by other pilgrims or that looked nice
when we passed:
Gite Martins-Itier,
Saugues;
L'Oustal
de Parent;
Accueil Monastique,
Conques; La Mariotte, Montredon;
Le Pentadou,
Felzins;
Las
Cabanas; CH
Sarraut, Auvillar;
Lou Casâu,
Miradoux;
Maison Valentin, Castet-Arrouy ;
Gite de
Gabarre, Condom;
Centre d'Accueil Communal,
Pimbo; Gite Communal, Sauvelade;
Ferme Bohoteguia,
Arroue(meal);
Auberge Duhalde at Uhart- Mixe;
Ferme Gaineko
Etxea, Ostabat. Hotel Rustico
Lorena, Muxia
Planned with the help of the Camino Planner. This version was planned with the elevation profile in mind and also because I have already visited and liked Figeac, Cajarc, Conques and Cahors and Limogne. Books, etc. say five weeks from Le Puy to Roncevalles - we are taking eight but, if this turns out to be too fast, we'll just take longer and get transport for the final stage. Similarly we may stay longer in nice places. The first couple of weeks are very steep and hilly and the next two are not a lot better but from week five to St. Jean Pied a Port it is not too bad. The final step from St. Jean Pied a Port to Roncevalles, however, is horrendous - although there is an alternative slightly gentler route. See the elevations profile image available from the Camino Planner pages.
UPDATE: The itinerary below is already out of date 'cos Suz has a knee problem so we will need to go a lot slower than my planned c. 10 miles a day. Now we're reckoning on only 5 miles for the first couple of days. We'll still meet Jackie in St. Come d'Olt though as planned - we'll take a taxi, bus or whatever and get there on time.